New York Fashion Week is fast approaching and The Green Shows, four days on the official NYFW roster dedicated to eco-friendly fashion, are yet another indicator that sustainable style is here to stay. Introduced last season, the eco-chic showcase will feature 10 global designers at an environmentally responsible venue: 311 E11: Village Green, a collection of eco-friendly condominium residences in the East Village.

Two designers bring some Canadian content to the Green Shows this season. Born and raised in Nova Scotia, Anna Gilkerson lived in New York for three years, studying at the Fashion Institute of Technology when the tragedy of 9/11 struck. Following stints designing for Buffalo, Dalia Private Label, and matt & nat in Montreal, Anna returned to her roots to establish Deux FM (pronounced as the French for two women) in Nova Scotia in 2006: "The name represents two women or the dual woman--she is both eco AND fashion-minded. The FM is a play on radio which is the educational aspect of it."

Thieves by Toronto's Sonja den Elzen, will grace the Green Shows runway on the 15th. Also founded in 2006, the label presents edgy, urban looks with classic cuts and clean lines made from sustainable and organic fabrics:

"The Thief is reclaiming the encounter between fashion and self-expression. The Thief seeks to avoid any compromise between natural self-expression and high-end fashion."

The Green Shows are sure to do the same. February 14-17th at 311 East 11th Street, btw 1st & 2nd Avenues.

Thieves showcases FW10 at 3 pm on the 15th.

Deux FM showcases FW10 at 3 pm on the 17th.

Sally Han is on a mission. The jewellry designer for Psalms 91:1 has found a way to balance her spiritual beliefs with her business. Derived from a Bible verse, her brand's name is a reminder of Sally's dedication to her faith and of her purpose: to use her gifts to help others. I talked to the designer about her line, and the upcoming event on Saturday, February 6 at Swish by Han which previews the Spring/Summer collection, "Be Fruitful", with an evening of Korean-style tapas, live music, and swag, with a portion of proceeds from sales benefitting Haiti.

Laura: Why did you name the line Psalms 9:11?

Sally: When I first started jewellry making, I wanted to wholly dedicate it to God who blessed me with the gift and inspiration, and I also wanted the name to constantly remind me of my purpose: to use the gift for others rather than myself.

Psalms 91:1 is the verse I chose because the whole chapter talks about how we as His children can trust Him and He will rescue us when we are in trouble. Also I saw it as God rescue 911!

L: Many in the industry hide their faith in God. Why did you decide to state your beliefs in the most public way: your brand name?

S: I am aware of how easy it is to become swayed and get lost in the materialism of the world. I knew that if I boldly stated my belief and faith in public, it will challenge me to stay rooted to my faith. I launched Psalms hoping it would be a ministry more than a business, so it made sense to have an unconcealed name.

L: Have you encountered any controversy over the name?

S: I have had investors and business people approaching me suggesting I should change the name if I want to grow as a business. I never considered it, and God has opened up so many doors for me, and Psalms is growing more and more.

L: What inspires you?

S: Every collection is inspired by my life experiences. When I went to Namibia, Africa, for three months on missions, I came back and launched the "Himba" collection. Timing was perfect because safari and Africa was the "in" style that season! I also went on a mission trip to the native reserves and launched the "Bow and Arrow" collection. I like to use my jewellry to tell a story so the audience too can become inspired. This season, our SS10 line is called "Be Fruitful" inspired by John 15:5. It may not come from a mission trip this time but it still relates to my life and what I am learning.

L: Who is your clientele?

S: Mothers, teenagers, young professional women, even Grandmothers, have all found something to love about Psalms. Psalms appeals to a variety of women. Soon we are launching a men's collection which is already being showcased at The Red Carpet Room and has been featured on the LG Fashion Week runway for House of Lizares.

L: And, finally, practical matters...what are your price points and where do we find your jewellry?

S: Our price points are affordable compared to the high quality and design we offer. We have prices ranging from $12 to $600 depending on the collection! Customers can make an appointment with me to come in and view our showroom, or purchase online and there is a list of stores in Toronto, Vancouver and New York on our website.

Meet Sally Han and preview her SS10 collection while donating to the Haiti relief effort. Saturday, February 6th from 6-10 pm at Swish by Han, 38 Welllington Street, Toronto. RSVP (rsvp@psalmsaccessories.com) and get a free swag bag!

Up until the 1940s, American designers were being ignored in favour of the European houses, even by members of their own press. The frame of reference for American fashion had always been European: American designers would travel to Paris, view the twice-yearly collections, and return to emulate them, hence influencing American style in a very non-American way. Although New York was known as a garment manufacturing centre, its designers remained unknown. If an American celebrity wanted a dress for the red carpet, for instance, she would fly to Paris to get it.

In 1940, The Dress Institute hired pioneering fashion publicist, Eleanor Lambert to help promote American fashion. The Institute had already set up a fund in which a fraction of the cost of each union-made dress would go toward an advertising campaign bringing attention to New York designers. In 1943, Lambert shrewdly decided to capitalize on Paris’s wartime misfortunes and organize an event in which New York designers would present their collections to members of the fashion press, thus bringing attention to New York and away from Paris. The event was called Press Week—today we call it Fashion Week—and it marked the beginning of major magazines like Vogue featuring American designs on its pages, looks which tended to be more innovative and wearable than their European counterparts.

Fashion Weeks have since popped up in cities all over the world, and New York continues to open each season, followed by London, Milan, and Paris (the Big Four). Although most fashion insiders agree Paris still rules haute couture, New York leads when it comes to ready to wear…and that’s where the money is. Very American, wouldn’t you say?

Image of first NYC Press Week

Image of Eleanor Lambert

Thanks to advice from Retro Chick in the UK, For Those About To Shop has been accredited at London Fashion Week! Stay posted for news and images from the catwalks, exhibitions, and of course London street style. UK designer Alexander McQueen loves to push boundaries with his dramatic and often controversial showcases. Perhaps that's why in the past he has chosen Toronto model Stacey McKenzie to walk for him. Although she has also walked for Gaulthier and Lacroix, her unconventional appeal made the path to those runways a challenging one.

Stacey was inspired to pursue modelling at age 6 after seeing a picture of Jean Paul Gaultier and Madonna together. Her reasoning: if that odd pair can make it, surely I can! In a full circle moment, Gaultier wound up giving Stacey her big break in Paris, hiring her to walk his runway right behind Madonna! Before that moment, however, Stacey suffered countless hurtful rejections and felt very alone while pursuing her dream. Walk This Way Workshops is Stacey's effort to help other girls and women on their way to a successful modelling career. "I promised I would use all my expertise and advice to help model hopefuls make it to the next level. That's where this workshop comes from," she said at Toronto's Spoke Club this weekend, after being introduced by Bustle designer and Project Runway Canada judge, Shawn Hewson, whose runway she walked at Toronto Fashion Week. Evan Biddell, winning designer of the first Project Runway Canada competition made an appearance for the Owning You walk off contest.

Alannah Verneuil won her spot in the workshop after entering a contest in Verve Girl magazine on why she deserves the opportunity to learn from Stacey. At 5'1" she fears height may be an impediment to her career. She no doubt benefitted from Stacey's assuring words: "You have to find your niche. Technically, anybody could be a model." Stacey presented examples of various genres of modelling include high fashion, plus size, commercial, body parts (hands and feet, for instance) and lingerie. High fashion is the typical tall, skinny model, but Stacey was adamant that it is only one small avenue into modelling and to never force yourself to embody those proportions if they are not naturally yours:

"If you don't meet the requirements," she said, "but you have great legs, great hair, gorgeous hands, you could do body parts modelling. If all else fails," she joked, "get into body parts modelling! You could make some good money."

Cory, a successful model agent, warned against irresponsible agents who tell you to lose weight. "We don't tell people to lose weight. If you're naturally meant to be a (high fashion) model, great; if you're not, don't fight it." Stacey responded: "Find another niche; find another avenue."

Fashion photographer David Hou explained: "When people talk about beauty, there is a preconception that it is a certain look, but really it is about who you are, being natural. Don't try to be other people." Stacey added: "The camera doesn't lie. There are a lot of beautiful people walking around but they're not models because they're not photogenic."

The message of the day was: Take nothing personally! Stacey: "Modelling is a cut-throat business so it's important to love and OWN who you are. People are going to tell you you're not pretty enough, skinny enough, tall enough, and it's easy to get lost in all the negativity. You can't take the rejections personally. You can't let it stop you from doing what you want to do."

39th and Broadway, the blog for NYC's fashion insiders, recently reported on that city's initiative to develop a fashion incubator which supports local emerging designers.The Incubator will encourage fashion entrepreneurs while keeping production local by awarding twelve worthy applicants with bargain basement rental fees for studio space in the Garment Center.

Here in Toronto, we've been blessed with our very own Fashion Incubator, the first of its kind in the world, since 1987. The Toronto Fashion Incubator (TFI) is a non-profit providing cost-effective studios, mentorship programs, educational seminars, opportunities for networking, and an incredible resource library, all in a safe and comforting environment that bolsters its members for the sometimes harsh world of fashion.

Elle Canada hosts the annual TFI New Labels fashion show and gala which awards $35,000 in cash and prizes to an up and coming local designer. And on February 6, to coincide with Winterlicious, TFI presents Guilty Pleasures at the Drake Hotel featuring TFI designers showing off their wares to a captive and satiated audience (The Drake Brunch is already sold out!).

Vibgyor wowed the crowd at Toronto Fashion Week last season with its debut North American showcase, the Spring 2010 collection entitled Juxtapose.

The brightly-coloured, Eastern-inspired collection garnered a lot of attention for the design team from Mumbai, Simone Khambatta and Roma Narsinghani, who met at the London School of Design in 2005 and forged both a business partnership and friendship.

 Although not yet available in North America, a preview of the collection is planned for Toronto and New York. I interviewed Simone about Vibyor's vision and direction for the future. (In case you didn't know, the name is an acronym for the colours of the rainbow.)

Laura:  Why Vibgyor?

Simone: We don't see ourselves as shades of grey. We are young, fresh, and colourful, so what better name?

L: Why did you decide to base the business in Mumbai?

S: Since we're both originally from Mumbai, we were bound to come back home. And the cost of production is low even though the quality and workmanship is phenomenal.

L: How did you and Roma come together?

S: We realized when we met that our basic aesthetics and sensibilities totally matched. And we grew really tight as friends... We pretty much do everything together, from creating our prints and embroideries to designing, and managing the business. It's a perfect balance.

L: What is your design philosophy?

S: Free-spirited and edgy, emphasizing an interplay of colours, textures, drape, and print. Our goal is to garb the "international woman" who travels and experiments with fashion. Our garments bear a unique sense of individuality and fall under the genre Generation Next.

L: What inspires you?

S: The mystical, natural, and supernatural elements of life.

L: How do you want women to feel when they wear Vibgyor?

S: Confident. Sexy. Comfortable.

At 14, Ben Barry became a model agent after agreeing to help a friend who was having trouble finding work. The magazine that hired her assumed Ben was the agent and that phone call marked the start of his business, instrumental in getting models of diverse sizes, ages, and races onto the runway at major fashion showcases.

Clients include Armani, Coca-Cola, Old Navy, Nike and L'Oreal, and he has been profiled on Oprah, in the Wall Street Journal, The Guardian, and The Globe and Mail. Ben is the first and only male recipient of the Governor General's Award in Commemoration of the Persons Case which recognizes the advancement of equality for girls and women in Canada.

I chatted with Ben who is currently completing a PhD at Cambridge University where he is researching international perceptions of beauty.

Laura:  You began your agency at age 14, a high school student in Ottawa. I remember seeing you on Fashion Television and you were this little boy who was a model agent. I don’t remember you talking about diversity at first; is it something that evolved over time?

Ben: When I began my agency, I represented the people who I considered beautiful – my friends and their families. But as I learned more about the modeling world, I was told that if I was to make it as an agent – and find work for my models – I would have to see beauty in the same way as my mentor (a top agent at Elite) and colleagues: size: 2, 5’9-5’10, 15-22 years old, and primarily Caucasian. I had to let go of my first models because they did not meet these rigid requirements. I felt terrible doing so, but I hated to give them false hope.

However, I saw first-hand the way my friends compared themselves to models and put themselves down because they did not look like them. I did not want to harm their body image or self-esteem. I did not want to be part of the problem. My decision was clear. I was going to use my experience and contacts in the industry to change it. My agency would represent models of all ages, sizes, backgrounds, and abilities, and we would champion diversity with a sound business model.

L: As a man, why are you so passionate about promoting diversity in the physical representations of women?

B: My Father passed away when I was young, and so my Mother and Grandmother raised me primarilly. Through them, I saw the power and compassion of women, and I learned what beauty was all about. It made no sense to me that they were not represented in fashion magazines and on the runway because I considered them the most beautiful women in the world. My Mother and my Grandmother are my inspiration for what I do.

L: How is the agency doing from a business perspective?

B: The agency is bustling. We are working with many emerging designers and established brands who know that their consumer does not look like the typical fashion model nor does she relate to them. They come to us because they want to get back on track with their consumer and what she wants to see in fashion. One of our exciting new clients is Project Runway Canada winner Sunny Fong. He is a designer who understands how to use diversity and why it is important -- and he is an incredible talent with a red-hot future.

Many people in the fashion industry get confused when they hear a fashion show or magazine is using real women. They think the image will look like a driver’s license picture – safe, drab,and dull. That is the very opposite of what I envision. When we showcase diversity in fashion, we have to remember it is fashion; diverse models should have the same glamour and artistry as the other models. Diverse images are aspirational, but also attainable and
honest. A women can actually look like the model, achieve her look, if she too got her hair and make-up done and put on a similar outfit. It's about authenticity; artifice feels very five years ago.

L: What do you say to critics of the fashion industry—those who simply despise fashion because they feel it is responsible for the one-size-fits-all image of women you are trying to challenge? Can haute couture and realistic depictions of women co-exist?

B: I believe fashion belongs to all of us. It allows us to express our personality, moods, and desires, to play and experiment with different looks and attitudes, to appreciate craftsmanship and artistic vision. While all of us might not be in the fashion industry, we can play a role in creating authentic images. We can support brands and magazines with our dollar. We can change how we think and speak about beauty each day. We can actively deconstruct the artifice of fashion images by picking them apart with our kids and friends. We can shift the dominant oppressive definition of beauty by calling our friends non-physical attributes beautiful--their laugh, heart, and mind.

In 1966, following the success of In Cold Blood, Truman Capote threw a black tie masquerade ball at New York's Plaza hotel which saw the city's social elite vying for a spot on the list. (Mia Farrow and Frank Sinatra arrive at the event, recognizable in spite of their masks).

In the spirit of the historic black-and-white-ball, dubbed the Party of the Century, Jen Foster and Ashley Macintyre have enlisted designers Greta Constantine and writer Shinan Govani to host this New Year's Eve at the Burroughes Building penthouse, the destination for Toronto's fashion community.

"The event is in the spirit of Truman Capote's black and white ball," says Jen. "The expectation is that people won't hold back and will really kick it up a notch."

Gail McInnes, from the Toronto Fashion Incubator, agrees: "With hosts like Shinan Govani and Greta Constantine, the Burroughes NYE party is sure to bring out some of Toronto's fashionable finest. The "modern masquerade" dress code will certainly inspire some unique and stylish outfits."

$100 includes open bar and hors d'oeuvres: http://thetopoftheburroughesnye.com/

Designer Max Azria (pictured here with former model turned fashion journalist, Arta Ghanbari, in a gorgeous suit from the collection) made a surprise visit to BCBG's Toronto flagship on Bloor this week.

If you didn't know, Azria's brand stands for Bon Chic Bon Genre, French for Good Style Good Attitude, and he has garnered both a celebrity and mainstream following with his unique blend of European sophistication and North American flair.

Recognized as a leading designer on the world stage, his price points remain relatively low and his keen business sense sees him adding retail locations at an ever-growing rate.

We've seen the same pattern with other high-end brands like Coach which can now be found at many a mall near you.

The question is: can a luxury brand maintain its status when it is so accessible? What about exclusivity which some say is a key component of "luxury". What do you say?